News

20132012 20112010

*Event*

The Europe of Rubens, exhibition: 22 May-23 September 2013

Born near Cologne, living in Antwerp after a long period in Italy, and active in the courts of Spain and England, Rubens (1577-1640) was an artist of European dimension. A renowned artist but also a diplomat, letter writer and entrepreneur,his work was very much determined by the European context in political, social, religious and economic terms.

The first international exhibition at the Louvre-Lens aims to shed light on Rubens’ time through over 170 works by the artist, by his models and by some of his contemporaries, from the Louvre’s collections and from leading European and American museums.

Reflecting the European artistic culture that mattered to Rubens, the exhibition includes paintings,drawings, sculptures and decorative arts. It aims to reproduce the dynamism of Rubens’creative output and conveys the spectacular nature of his inspiration. It also offers a few intimate moments, revealing a more personal side to Rubens.

Louvre-Lens museum: 99, rue Paul Bert – 62300 Lens. Open daily from 10am to 6pm, closed on Tuesdays. Late-night opening until 10pm on Fridays 7 June and 6 September.

For more information, download the official press release or visit www.louvrelens.fr

*Event*

Costume Colloquium IV: Colors in Fashion, Florence, November 2014

Did you ever wonder why we wear the colors we wear and why it might matter?

What do names like “basic black”, “shocking pink”, “royal blue” and “cardinal red” bring to mind?

Color has always been, and probably will always be, a mode of expression of who we are and what we represent. Colors have meanings and all the more so when worn by certain people, on certain occasions or at certain times of the day. Why is that? Who decides what colors to wear when and where in different parts of the world? More now than ever, color in fashion influences us, our tastes and our trends and the marketing of clothes highly depends on the choices that color analysts and forecasters make for us.

Therefore the next edition of Costume Colloquium, which will take place in Florence, Italy in November of 2014, will focus on a kaleidoscope of topics that rotate around the color wheel of fashion.

As with all the past three Costume Colloquium conferences, an international, interdisciplinary and intercultural format will spark a lively and informative dialogue among speakers and participants from a variety of backgrounds, professions and points of view. The three day event will not only feature an impressive selection of high profile presenters, but also all inclusive behind-the-scenes visits and excursions to exclusive places and sites pertinent to the interests of all who attend.

Call for Papers (deadline: 1 July 2013)

The Advisory Committee and organizers of the next Costume Colloquium dedicated to “Colors in Fashion” are seeking new and unpublished papers for the 2014 conference. As with all the previous Costume Colloquium conferences, presentations can be made on material of a theoretical and/or practical nature. Not only informative, but also inventive and creative presentations are welcome.

Further information on the Call for papers:

http://www.costume-textiles.com/?page_id=283

Conference description:
http://www.costume-textiles.com/?page_id=1893

 

*Event*

Politeness and Prurience: situating transgressive sexualities in the long eighteenth century, 2-3 September 2013, University of Edinburgh

Call for Papers

Deadline for Abstracts: 10 September 2012

A major international and multidisciplinary conference hosted by the History of Art Department at the University of Edinburgh

The aim of this conference is not to present illicit sexuality as an underbelly to a dominant polite culture, but to reconcile the ‘two eighteenth centuries’ that have for too long been presented as the subject of two discrete discourses – politeness and prurience. As well as dealing with the interface between politeness and prurience as it appears throughout eighteenth-century visual, material and literary culture more generally, specific topics for papers could include:

  • Bodies – the venereal body, castrati, physicalities, sadomasochism
  • Settings – home and abroad, urban centres, rural backwaters
  • Spaces – the architectural exterior and the private interior, the bagnio, the brothel, the masquerade
  • Gaze/Experience – viewing sexualities, the keyhole testimony, description and biography
  • Material Evidence – the objects of sexuality, dress, sex aids, collections, erotica
  • Masculinities and Femininities – gender roles, reversals and subversions
  • Modes of the illicit – sodomitical, Sapphic, pathological, pederastic, extra-marital, rape
  • Public & Private – reception/reaction, fear/celebration, homophobia, display, expression
  • Language – parlance, designation, rumour, slander, code

We invite abstracts of no more than 500 words to Dr. Viccy Coltman (Head of History of Art), Jordan Mearns & Freya Gowrley at politeness.prurience@gmail.com by 10 September 2012.

Read More: http://politenessandprurience.com/call-for-papers/

 

*Partner Publication*

“Import av mode”, Gaudeamus (Stockholm University’s Student Magazine)

Read the essay written by Patrik Steorn on the research conducted and presented as part of the Fashioning the Early Modern final conference.

See also the press release published by Stockholm University on Dr Patrik Steorn’s research and the work presented at the Fashioning the Early Modern final conference.

*Event*

Travelling Fashion. Styles, Diversity, Globalization, January 23–24, 2013, Wella-Museum Darmstadt, Germany

Download flier

Read more

The globalization of fashion is often understood as a standardizing process that levels out all national and cultural differences – as if all current fashion movements worldwide are heading in the same direction. Upon closer inspection however it becomes clear that the purported global trends are subject to numerous twists and turns: the seemingly identical signs and objects of fashion and hairstyles in fact dissolve into a host of distinct phenomena conditioned by their respective cultural historical context.

 

 

2012

*Event*

L’innovation dans la soierie lyonnaise, Journée d’étude et table ronde aux musées Gadagne, November 2012

Parmi les nombreux rendez-vous du festival Labelsoie 2012, deux temps forts d’un haut niveau scientifique sont proposés par les musées Gadagne, en partenariat avec le monde universitaire et de la recherche.

Jeudi 15 novembre à 19h
Table ronde de la commission mémoire autour des innovations.

Mardi 20 novembre de 9h à 18h
Journée d’étude sur l’histoire de la soierie lyonnaise : Innovations et la Fabrique de Lyon

Flier to be downloaded here.

*Seminar Series*

La mode : Objet d’Études ? ( II )

Après une première édition en 2012, le programme poursuit cette série de séminaires, lieu d’un dialogue entre les cultures, les pratiques et les approches transdisciplinaires (histoire du costume, de la mode et de l’art, histoire culturelle, littérature…). En interrogeant les spécificités matérielles du vêtement, de nouvelles méthodologies ont décloisonné et enrichi les disciplines, visant à pérenniser la mode comme objet d’étude universitaire. Pour cette nouvelle saison, l’analyse des « marges » de la mode permettra de redéfinir les frontières déterminant le style, le goût et les usages vestimentaires. Avec le concours de Anne-Christine Taylor, responsable du département de la Recherche et de l’Enseignement du musée du Quai Branly, le vêtement extra-occidental, métissé ou orientalisé fera l’objet de deux séances. Les différences et points de convergence entre les économies de l’art, de la haute couture et du théâtre donneront lieu à l’analyse d’objets et de pratiques mixtes : les rapports entre architecture et mode, et l’histoire de la vitrine. Enfin, deux champs d’études spécifiques, comme la photographie de mode masculine et les accessoires de mode, seront réévalués grâce à l’apport des sciences sociales, notamment de la sociologie, de l’anthropologie et des études visuelles.

Organisation: Philippe Sénéchal et Damien Delille

Contact: damien.delille@inha.fr

Institut national d’histoire de l’art, 2, rue Vivienne / 6, rue des Petits-Champs – 75002 Paris

Entrée libre dans la limite des places disponibles.

For a full programme, download flier here.

 

*Event*

Conference Report

Ländliche Eliten. Bäuerlich-bürgerliche Eliten in den friesischen Marschen und den angrenzenden Geestgebieten 1650-1850.

A collaborative research project supported by the VolkswagenStiftung initiative ‘Research in Museums’ 2010-2013.

Conducted at the Carl von Ossietzky-Universität Oldenburg, Institut für Geschichte der Frühen Neuzeit, 20-22 September 2012.

Download Conference Report here.

Dagmar Freist to the centre.

*Press Release*

“Modetrender spreds snabbt redan i 1700-talets Europa”, Stockholm University, 10 September 2012.

A press release published by Stockholm University on Dr Patrik Steorn’s research and the work to be presented at the Fashioning the Early Modern final conference has been issued by Stockholm University.

New ideas and trends about fashion circulated very fast in 18th century Europe and were disseminated across linguistic and geographic borders, and in different types of media. For example, one can find a series of prints on wigs published in the same month in 1777 both in Sweden and France. The same fashion motifs that were used in print, were also used on fans and on porcelain. These motifs were very popular and were largely used, explains Patrik Steorn.

The results of Patrik Steorn’s research have been presented at the final conference that was held at the Victoria and Albert Museum, 14-15 September 2012.

The research is part of individual project P3 “Print culture and fashion products” led by the Principal Investigator P3, Professor Peter McNeil, Sydney Technology University & Stockholm University). Also participating in the Swedish research group are Professor Klas Nyberg, a member of the External Advisory Committee, and the Associated partner, Ann Grönhammar, curator at the Royal Armoury, Stockholm.

For the Fashioning the Early Modern Final Conference 2012 programme see Victoria and Albert Museum link here.

Further information about the “Print culture and fashion products” project and the project’s research see:

http://www.fashioningtheearlymodern.ac.uk/about/theme-3/

http://www.fashioningtheearlymodern.ac.uk/about/theme-3/theme-3-research/

See also our “Object in focus” series:

http://www.fashioningtheearlymodern.ac.uk/object-in-focus/swedish-faience-tray/

http://www.fashioningtheearlymodern.ac.uk/object-in-focus/an-incredible-fan/

 

*Event*

2nd Nordic Research Workshop, Centre for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University, Friday December 14, 2012

Invitation and Call for Papers

Deadline for abstracts: Monday, 10 October 2012

The 2nd Nordic Research Workshop in Fashion Studies, hosted by the Centre for Fashion Studies will be held at Stockholm University on Friday, 12 December 2012.

Following the successful workshop in 2008, we once again invite Nordic scholars and graduate students from all academic disciplines and design fields who conduct research in Fashion and/or Fashion Studies to participate and present their research in a one day long workshop.

Each presentation, which should be in English, should be no longer than 15 minutes, and we do not ask for formal papers.

The workshop, which takes place at Stockholm University at Frescati, will run from 09.00 to 17.00 hrs with breaks for lunch and coffee. Following the workshop, there will be a reception.

The event is free for all participants who present.

Please send a short abstract (max 400 w0rds) no later than Monday, October  10 to our coordinator Petrine Knight at petrine@fashion.su.se.

Download the Call for Papers Poster in full here.

 

*Event*

Emblems of Nationhood, Britishness 1707–1901: a multidisciplinary conference, 10 –12 August 2012, University of St Andrews

Conference Announcement and Registration

National identity is a central point of enquiry that is repeatedly called upon in contemporary social and political rhetoric. Our conference will address the roots of this theme by discussing depictions of Britain and Britishness in literature, philosophy, history, and art between the Act of Union in 1707 and the death of Queen Victoria in 1901.

Over the course of this multidisciplinary conference, we aim to explore how expressions of nationalism have moulded both critical perspectives on national identity and their creative products.

Further information can be found on our website: http://www-ah.st-andrews.ac.uk/Emblems_of_Nationhood/Home.html

Registration: Click here to register.

Download the Emblems of Nationhood Conference Poster here.

 

*Event*

Exhibition RococoMania 2012, 3 May – 23 September, Designmuseum Danmark

The exhibition draws parallels between the 18. century and the present. The past is illustrated through selected objects from the museum’s 18. century collections, here among textiles and fashion. The present is represented by the British-Nigerian artist Yinka Shonibare MBE and three Danish fashion artists, Nikoline Liv Andersen, Laura Baruël and Anne Damgaard.

The exhibition is on show until 23 September 2012.

Images from the Rococomania exhibition opening: http://designmuseum.dk/en/presse/presserum/aabning-af-rokoko-mania

Press release in English: http://designmuseum.dk/en/presse/presserum/ny

For general info in Danish and interviews with three contemporary fashion designers see: http://designmuseum.dk/udstillinger/aktuelle-saerudstillinger/rokoko-mania

For Rococomania event programme (Danish only) see: http://designmuseum.dk/aktiviteter/foredrag-og-talks/rokoko-mania-eventprogram

Upcoming event – Fashion show with three Danish fashion designers, Wednesday, 23 May, 19-20 hrs, Designmuseum Danmarks Festsal:
http://designmuseum.dk/aktiviteter/foredrag-og-talks/kom-til-modesalon-rokoko

*Project Final Event*

Fashioning the Early Modern: Creativity and Innovation in Europe 1500-1800, Friday 14 September – Saturday 15 September, Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Conference Announcement and Call for Registration

Why did men from Spain to Sweden start to shave their heads and wear someone else’s hair in the mid-seventeenth century? Why did women decide that it was necessary to wear masks and other full-face coverings in public towards the end of the century? What was the economic and social impact of the sudden proliferation of ribbon-making machines?

Funded by the Humanities in the European Research Area (HERA), the “Fashioning the Early Modern: Creativity and Innovation in Europe 1500-1800” project takes fashion seriously, asking the simple question: how and why did certain goods such as wigs, new textiles, ribbons, ruffs and lace become successful in early modern Europe while others failed? How far did these goods travel and how were they transmitted across linguistic, social and geographic borders? These are questions that remain relevant and our project demonstrates how a study of creativity and innovation as an economic and cultural force in the past can help our understanding of the same issues today.

The two-day “Fashioning the Early Modern: Creativity and Innovation in 1500-1800 Europe” conference will take place at the Victoria and Albert Museum. It will be organised around three themes: Innovation, Dissemination and Reputation. Invited presentations by Lesley Miller (Victoria and Albert Museum) , John Styles (University of Hertfordshire) and Evelyn Welch (University of Queen Mary, University of London).

The conference programme and booking details are now available online at the V & A website at:
http://www.vam.ac.uk/whatson/event/1780/fashioning-the-early-modern-creativity-and-innovation-in-europe-2945/

A small number of travel bursaries for postgraduate students and young professionals will be advertised here in due course.

For any further information about the conference, contact j.bolfek-radovani@qmul.ac.uk.

 

 

*Project Event*

5th Fashioning the Early Modern Workshop, 13 June – 14 June 2012, The Carlsberg Academy, Copenhagen, Denmark

Call for bursary applications (deadline: Monday 27 April)

The HERA funded ‘Fashioning the Early Modern: Creativity and Innovation in Early Modern Europe, 1500-1800′ project will be holding a designers’ workshop on 13 June – 14 June, Copenhagen The workshop is organised by Maj Ringgaard (National Museum of Denmark) and Kirsten Toftegaard (Designmuseum Danmark).

On the first day of the workshop organised around the theme of rococo, participants will be able to meet three contemporary Danish designers (Nikoline Liv Andersen, Laura Baruël, Anne Damgaard) who will present and discuss their work in three small discussion groups. The discussions with the designers will be followed by a visit to the Danish Design Museum amd a guided tour by Kirsten Toftegaard.

The second day of the workshop will be a half-day only and will be organised around the theme of knitting. Maj Ringgaard will first present her postdoctoral project on knitting, followed by discussions in two small groups with two knitting designers. The second day of the workshop will finish with lunch.

We welcome participation from scholars with an interest in early modern clothing and / or contemporary design.

Workshop attendance is by invitation only.

For a draft programme and for details on how to apply for a bursary, go to:
http://www.fashioningtheearlymodern.ac.uk/workshops/workshop-5/

Event

Early Modern Merchants as Collectors, University of Oxford, UK 

A conference to be held at the Ashmolean Museum, Friday and Saturday, 15 and 16 June 2012

In 1615, Vincenzo Scamozzi highlighted the importance in Venice of the merchant-collectors Bartolomeo dalla Nave and Daniel Nijs by including descriptions of their collections in his L’Idea della architettura universale. Scholarship has also moved beyond the consideration of the artist and the patron as the principal protagonists in the history of collecting. As a result, merchants are now being regarded by historians as influential collectors in their own right.

With the 1985 publication of The Origin of Museums, a collection of conference papers edited by Oliver Impey and Arthur MacGregor, the Ashmolean Museum became established as a leading institution for research in the history of collecting. Recently re-opened with innovative galleries displaying objects exploring the theme ‘Crossing Cultures Crossing Time’, the new Ashmolean now affords an opportunity to re-visit the 1985 conference topic and not only to update but also to expand it into this fresh area of research and debate. This interdisciplinary conference will explore early modern merchants as collectors across a wide range of geographical regions and collecting categories, investigating whether there are any patterns connecting these merchant-collectors of the early modern period and what theoretical frameworks can be applied to them.

For a final programme and for details on how to register, go to: http://earlymodernmerchants.ashmus.ox.ac.uk/

 

 

Event

Pasold Research Fund Conference 2012, Innovation before the Modern, Cloth and Clothing in the Early Modern World, Nordiska Museet, Stockholm, 27-29 September 2012

Registration deadline: Tuesday 15 May 2012

Jointly organised by: University of Uppsala, Stockholm University, K. A. Almgren Sidenväveri & Museum and the Nordiska Museet.

The 2012 Pasold conference will consider the dynamics of change and innovation within the production, trade, retailing and consumption of textiles and clothing in the period before the nineteenth century. This requires an understanding of the history of making cloth and clothes, of the training and organization of labour, and of the relative value of technical and conceptual skills. The conference aims to reflect on product as well as process innovation, invention, changes in design and more general shifts in the politics of production (for instance, the nature of the guilds, notions of quality and value) and also consumption (for example, the gendering of cloth and clothing; access to markets and mindsets).

The Preliminary Programme  can be downloaded here.

The Registration Form can be downloaded here.

 

 

Event

CECS Day Conference, the King’s Manor, University of York, UK, Saturday 23 June 2012, 9.30am to 5.00pm

Desiring Fashion: The Consumption and Dissemination of Dress 1750-1850

Convenor: Serena Dyer

This day conference brings together academic and curatorial work on the desire to dress fashionably in the eighteenth century. From faces to feet, the fashionable men and women of the eighteenth century strove to achieve aesthetic perfection. This series of papers explores the process of fashion dissemination, production and consumption which enabled the fulfilment of these desires, and how this related to the concepts of desire, gender and beauty. The papers to be presented cover subjects such as cosmetics and beauty, fashion plates, silk manufacture and the relationship between dressmaker and client. A small exhibition of fashion plates and accessories from the period will accompany the conference.

Aileen Ribeiro (Courtauld) – ‘Desiring Beauty: women and cosmetics in the eighteenth century’

Elisabeth Gernerd (Edinburgh) – ‘Pulled Tight and Gleaming: The Stocking’s Position within Eighteenth-Century British Masculinity’

Lesley Miller (V&A) – ‘Material marketing: how Lyonnais manufacturers sold their silks in the 18th century’

Hilary Davidson (Museum of London) – ‘Recreating Jane Austen’s Pelisse-Coat’

Catherine Flood (V&A) – ‘Fashion in Print and the Pleasures of Picturing Modern life: fashion plates and fashion satires’

Serena Dyer (York) – ‘A Beautiful Bargain: Lady Sabine Winn’s relationship with fashion’

How to register

The registration fee is £12.00. This includes a simple sandwich lunch, tea and coffee. Registration is now available via our online store.

Members of the University of York : Registration is free, but please email cecs1@york.ac.uk to register. Lunch (optional) is £5.00.

 

Event

Défier le temps, une affaire de mode. Colloque International de l’Université de la Mode , Tuesday 27 – Wednesday 28 March 2012

Grand Amphi de l’Université Lumière Lyon 2

Le colloque s’articule selon 3 axes :

1. Le passé et le futur, réservoirs de créativité pour la mode : la mode regarde son passé ; le contemporain à contre temps ; l’appropriation du patrimoine.
2. Des temps de la vie aux temps de la mode : le temps des garde-robes ; les âges de la vie et la mode ; la temporalité de la mode.
3. Défier le temps, les réponses de la mode aujourd’hui : les nouveaux outils ; la conservation de demain ; le temps de la fabrication.

Le colloque, qui réunit universitaires, chercheurs et professionnels, s’adresse aussi à tous les acteurs de la mode, industriels, créateurs, étudiants et amateurs. Il se déroule sur deux journées de rencontres :

• communications scientifiques,
• tables rondes réunissant professionnels et décideurs,
• animations proposées par des étudiants de l’Université de la Mode.

Download programme here.

 

Publication by Partners

Peter McNeil (co-editor), Nordic Fashion Studies (with Louise Wallenberg, eds), Stockholm, axl Books, February 2012.Introduction by Peter McNeil; separate chapter by Peter McNeil entitled ‘Fashion Houses’.

Fashion means much more than dress. There are fashions in all aspects of life, from the time and manner of taking meals to the ways in which people sit. Clothes are animated by bodies moving in space, through gesture and deportment, and attitudes towards work and leisure that have changed dramatically across culture and time. The dressed body occupies space in coded ways that are learned through socialisation and that are also subject to fashion. This anthology explores the multi-dimensions of fashion, from the market to the imagination. Fashion, a series of experts argue, is relational and weighty, yet still figures in the media and popular imagination as nebulous and opaque. This anthology seeks to overturn that popular view, introducing readers to new ways of conceptualising their interest and participation in fashion past and present.

Download the flier here.

Event

Conference “Fashioning Opera and Musical Theatre: Stage Costumes from the Late Renaissance to 1900”

A conference at the Fondazione Giorgio Cini, Isle of San Giorgio Maggiore in Venice, 29 March-1 April 2012. Conference organizers: Isabella Campagnol (Rubelli Historical Textile Collection, Venice), Valeria De Lucca (University of Southampton, UK) and the Centro Studi per la Ricerca Documentale sul Teatro e Melodramma Europeo of the Fondazione Giorgio Cini.

Registration: http://www.cini.it/en/event/detail/2/618
Conference Programme: http://www.cini.it/en/event/program/category_id/2/id/618

Exhibition

Shoes and Accessories / Sko og Accessories
Fashion and Frills in the 1700s / Mode og Luksus i 1700-tallet

9 March – 30 December 2012
Den Gamle By, Aarhus, Denmark

The style specialists at Den Gamle By have gone trend-spotting, bringing you the hottest accessories and the coolest gadgets for fashionable ladies and gents to flaunt in high society. Must-haves of the 1700s include silk fans with the latest in ivory fan-sticks, practical chalk-pipe cases, English pocket watches, and silk slippers à la Madame de Pompadour, the style icon of the era. exhibition.

Read more on our latest project blog.

Publication

“Tenir boutique à Paris au XVIIIe siècle, Luxe et demi-luxe”, by Natacha Coquery

C’est de sa vitalité commerçante au XVIIIe siècle que Paris tire sa renommée de capitale de la mode. Cette étude propose de découvrir le fonctionnement de la boutique, noyau de l’institution marchande, en l’observant dans son quotidien et dans les réseaux sociaux et territoriaux dans lesquels elle s’inscrit. Elle présente ses difficultés, ses clients et le jeu marchand sur la qualité des produits ; l’innovation commerçante bouleverse les habitudes et les traditions. La capacité des boutiquiers à inventer un marché qualifié de demi-luxe, parce qu’il a gardé l’apparence du luxe et qu’il s’ouvre par ses prix à une clientèle élargie, est capitale dans cette dynamique. Se crée un code du commerce et de l’échange où les habitudes anciennes, le troc et le crédit, coexistent avec le changement des modes de consommation et la naissance de nouveaux besoins.

En observant la boutique sous trois angles – culturel, géographique et économique –, Natacha Coquery apporte au lecteur un formidable éclairage sur le rôle des boutiquiers dans l’élargissement social du marché et l’avènement d’une culture de consommation. Elle dépeint un monde marchand entreprenant et actif, sans en cacher les faiblesses, dans un siècle ambigu qui balance entre archaïsme et modernité.

ISBN 978-2-7355-0733-7 / SODIS F307886

2011 – prix 28€

http://cths.fr/ed/edition.php?id=5554

Event

“Doily-Free Zone: Raising the status of lace and lace making”, 1st International Symposium of Young Lace Makers, April 4-7 2013

Call for Papers /Exhibition & Workshop Proposals: deadline of 31 March 2012

We are pleased to announce that we will be holding a symposium for and about young lace makers in Pavia, Italy (just south of Milan) in April 2013 in order to coincide with Milan Design Week. The symposium aims to encourage communication amongst young lace makers and to safeguard and promote this rich textile tradition as a form of creative expression. For the purposes of this meeting we define lace as a fabric in which the open spaces are as fundamental to the design as the solid areas and where this is interplay of holes is an intrinsic part of the fabric’s structure, for this reason we will not accept proposals based on die or laser cut “lace patterns”. All lace makers who wish to present work or research papers must be under the age of 40 at the time of the symposium, this is not meant as discrimination but is rather an attempt to focus on the work of a generation which for various reasons is not associated with the major guilds and organizations. The symposium, however, will be open to all.

The symposium will be divided into three categories; Lace and Tradition, Lace and Design and Lace and Art and we are accepting proposals for papers, works of art and design, and workshops related to these themes. Proposals are to be sent to the attention of Angharad Rixon at info@textilesupport.it no later than Saturday 31st March 2012 and the successful applicants will be contacted by Sunday 15th April 2012. A complete programme for the symposium and related events will be available in June 2012.

Download the full Call for Papers here.

Event

Call for papers for session “Fashion as Image”,  10th Nordik conference, Stockholm 24-27 October 2012

Deadline: 15 January 2012

Chairs:
Andrea Kollnitz, Ph.D., Assistant Professor, Centre for Fashion Studies, Dept. of Art History, Stockholm University, email: andrea@fashion.su.se

Patrik Steorn, Ph.D., Postdoctoral Researcher, Centre for Fashion Studies, Dept. of Art History, Stockholm University, email: patrik@fashion.su.se

Fashion is one of the most powerful visual phenomena in our everyday lives and the foremost visual tool in building personal identity. It has occupied a central role in the rise of modernity with its growing interactions between art and industry and still does so today. In his semiotic study of the meaning in and of fashion magazines Roland Barthes theorizes “The Language of Fashion” by not only showing how fashion itself is perceived to convey meaning but also by emphasizing the role of media in shaping the symbolic message of clothes. Dominating fashion trends and beauty ideals as well as transgressive dressing and subversive styles have been communicated not only by the aesthetic experience of personal appearances but even more by imagery and visual presentations. While dress historians traditionally have used historical artworks to investigate and identify historical fashion styles and changes in dress, art historians have only lately started to emphasize the role of fashion as an important signifier and sensual focus in personal representations and a dominating feature in historical and contemporary visual cultures. Most notable are fashion-analytical approaches to portraiture painting (Pointon 1993, 1997; Ribeiro 1995, 2005) as well as a rising interest in the aesthetics, meanings and power of fashion photography (Evans 2003, Shinkle et al. 2010).

This session will focus on the visual allure of fashion and fashion imagery as a central part of modern aesthetic experience and thus even problematize and theorize its intermedial power. It wants to investigate the power of historical and contemporary fashion images and presentations on a broad spectrum from early modern fashion prints, fashion caricatures and historical portraits of fashionable sitters to fashion photography, magazines, look books, advertising etc. Which part does dress and its aesthetics play in the impact of art works and images as a whole? How does the sensual impact and performativity of fashion and fashion images contribute to the diffusion of aesthetic ideals and/or their subversion and transgression?

A connected area of interest is fashion display in exhibitions, the role of the fashion museum and its presentations of fashion history and history of aesthetics. Fashion museums and their particular qualities and problems have been discussed by art and fashion scholars (Breward 2008, Steele 2008, McNeil 2009), but still form quite an uninvestigated field in today’s museological research. How are the aesthetic powers of fashion and the fashion object negotiated in the museum context and how can we characterize and understand the visual allure of fashion exhibitions, catwalk shows and other types of staged fashion display as theatrical events in close relationship to art exhibitions and performance art?

Submissions should be sent to chairs as well as conference organisers (papers.nordik2012@arthistory.su.se). See call for papers on http://nordicarthistory.org

 

 

 

 

 

 

2011

Event

Round table: “Costume de cour au XVI siècle”, Wednesday 7 December 2011, Institut national d’histoire de l’art, Paris, 18 hrs.

La Revue de l’Art et les Éditions Ophrys are organising a Round Table at the time of the publication of the special issue n° 174
entitled “Costume de cour au xvie siècle”.

Event details: Wednesday 7December 2011, 18 heures, Salle Vasari, Institut National d’Histoire de l’Art, 2, rue Vivienne, 75002 Paris.

Download flier here.

Publication

“Facing Beauty, Painted Women and Cosmetic Art”, by Aileen Ribeiro

Publication Date: 30th November 2011 * £30.00 * ISBN: 9780300124866 * 371pp with 200 colour illus.

This wide-ranging survey, spanning four centuries, illuminates shifting perceptions of female beauty through works of art and the evolution of cosmetics.

For full details of the publication, download the flier here.

 

Event

Conference : “L ’industrie rubanière et les collections textiles du Musée d’Art de d’Industrie de Saint-Etienne”, 18 November 2011, Musée des Sciences de l’Homme, Clermont-Ferrand, 18 hrs

Le Conservatoire textile, Association d’Auvergne pour la promotion et la valorisation des arts textiles

Le Musée d’Art et d’Industrie de Saint-Etienne abrite la collection de rubans la plus importante du monde. Une variété impressionnante de motifs, un festival de formes et de couleurs qui révèlent une créativité et un savoir-faire extraordinaires, reconnus dans le monde entier. La maison Fraisse-Merley a contribué a la renommée de Saint-Etienne sur les places mondiales de la Haute-Couture.

Speakers:

Sylvain BESSON, Régisseur des collections textiles du Musée d’Art et d’Industrie

Elodie MORICCI, Chercheur en arts textiles

For full details about the conference, download the flier here.

Event

Seminar: “Du costume à la mode: une histroire du vêtement”, 15 Novembre 2011, Institut National d’Histoire de l’Art, Paris, 14-17 hrs

The first in the series of INHA seminars on “Fashion and Clothing” wil take place on 15 November, Institut National d’Histoire de l’Art, Paris.

Speakers:

Gabriele Mentges, Technische Universität de Dortmund
Daniel Roche, Collège de France, Paris
Herman Roodenburg, Vrije Universiteit d’Amsterdam
Lou Taylor, Université de Brighton
Respondent: Philippe Sénéchal, INHA, Paris

For a full programme of seminars in 2011-2012 download the flier here.

To read more about the INHA’s new seminar program dedicated to the ‘History of Fashion and Clothing’, visit:
http://www.inha.fr/spip.php?article3371

 

Event

Colloquium on the relationship between fashion and time (exact title to be confirmed), 27-28 March 2012, Grand Amphithéâtre de l’Université Lumière Lyon 2

Organised by: L’Université de la Mode – Université Lumière Lyon 2:

Call for papers deadline: 14 Novembre 2011

The full call for papers can be downloaded here.

Event

International colloquium “Les mots des vêtements et des textiles: désignation et restitution dans le cadre d’un réseau interdisciplinaire”, Dijon, 20-21 October 2011

This is the first colloquium organised by the interdisciplinary network “Vêtement & Textile : Sources et Ressources”. The colloquium will take place in Dijon, Musée de la Vie bourguignone, 20-21 October 2011.

A full programme and practical details can be download here:

Program, French (PDF)

Practical info, French (Rich Text Format)

Further information: vetement.textile@gmail.com.

Publication

“Power Dressing at Court 1400-1815″ (edited by Isabelle Paresys and Natacha Coquery)

Collection “Histoire de l’Europe du Nord-Ouest” coordinated by the Conseil Scientifique of the Université Charles-de-Gaulle – Lille 3

Co-published with the Centre de recherche du château de Versailles

The royal court was a place to see and be seen, and nowhere has society’s concern for appearances been more visible. What did the manner of dress convey in this “society of the spectacle”? Sartorial appearance was a powerful driving force behind cultural practices relating to the body and identity. It activated a whole luxury market and fuelled the dynamics of exchange between the European courts. This volume looks at the attire of royals and courtiers in Europe between 1400 and 1815, a period that saw the rise of court society. Kings and queens were among the first to understand the power of clothing and wore it to the highest degree of
sophistication. Dress was a means to govern and to rule.

The full text of the flier (English) can be downloaded here.

Event

TSA 2012 Biennial Symposium, Textiles and Politics, 19 – 22 September 2012, Washington, DC

Call for Papers (deadline: 1 October 2011)

The 13th Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America will take place in Washington, DC, September 19-22, 2012. The theme of Textiles & Politics befits the symposium venue in the U.S. capital and will generate lively discussion about the myriad ways in which textiles pervade our lives.

Throughout human history and around the globe, whether as intimate artifacts of interpersonal relations or state-level monumental works, textiles have been imbued with political importance. Political influences on textiles range from complex international trade agreements to the simple yet powerful act of banners carried in street parades and protests.

Full details:
http://www.textilesociety.org/
http://www.textilesociety.org/downloads/2012-Symp-TSA-Biennial-Symposium-Call-for-Papers.pdf

 

Event

The Trade in Luxury and Luxury in Trade. The production, display, and circulation of precious objects from the Middle Ages to the present day, 22-23 November 2012, Lyon, musée Gadagne.

Call for Papers (deadline: 1 Jan 2012)

Call for papers for an international interdisciplinary conference, ‘The trade in luxury and Luxury in Trade. The production, display, and circulation of precious objects from the Middle Ages to the present day’, organized by the Laboratoire de Recherche Historique Rhône-Alpes (UMR 5190) to take place at the musée Gadagne in Lyon, on Thursday 22 and Friday 23 November 2012.

How were luxury objects produced, displayed, disseminated and consumed? The aim of this conference is to return to the question of progressive specialization in a trade devoted to precious objects. The chronological, spatial and disciplinary boundaries are flexible, open in order to encourage the participation of specialists from different backgrounds – history, art and design history, economics, literature, sociology, etc.

The objective is to reveal the richness and diversity of what the term ‘luxury’ embraced (and embraces) and to consider how specialist markets were gradually created and defined. Two specific approaches will be developed. On one hand, the focus will be on people and goods; on the other, it will be on points of sale and the material and symbolic power deriving from this particular sector of the economy.

A full Call for Papers can be downloaded here.

Publication

“Gustav, a 17th Century Golden design”, Duran Newsletter, September 2011

In spring 2010 Durán Textiles made products for the museum shop of Livrustkammaren modeled on textiles in the collection of the Royal Armory of Stockholm.

The design GUSTAV is modeled from an embroidered traveling suit worn by King Gustav II Adolf, the Swedish king that ruled 1615-1632, and whose engagement in the thirty year war transformed Sweden into a nation of great military power. Read more.

Publication by Partners

Shoes: A history from sandals to sneakers (edited by Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil)

Peter McNeil’s co-edited volume (2006) with Dr Giorgio Riello, a member of the Advisory Board of FEM, is now issued in paper. The volume contains their co-authored essay, ‘Walking the Streets of London and Paris: Shoes in the Enlightenment’.

For further details, download the PDF flier here.

Event

Art and Ritual in Late Medieval and Early Modern Northern and Central Europe, Talinn, 1-3 September 2011.

The event is organised by the Institute of Art History of Estonian Academy of Arts and the Centre for Medieval Studies, Tallinn University.

The medieval as well as the early modern era were highly visual periods in which images, objects and performances played a relevant representative, communicative, and constitutive role in both secular and religious spheres of the society. Images, spaces and rituals were closely interconnected; hence, the complex study of these phenomena is essential for a better understanding of the medieval and early modern societies and people.

The interdisciplinary conference in Tallinn aims to discuss these interconnections by bringing together experts in fields of art history, cultural history, theology and church history, theatre history, anthropology, etc. Topics to be discussed include church, court and civic ceremonies, performative aspect of festivals, rituals associated with images, rituals of dying and commemoration, (self)representation of individuals and different social groups, art and architecture as means of symbolic communication.

General information (see the News section): http://www.tlu.ee/?LangID=2&CatID=4484

Programme: http://www.tlu.ee/?LangID=2&action=ShowEvents&NewsID=3922&Latest=yes

Publication by Partners

Essay How artists changed fashion: ‘back-story’ by Peter McNeil (Professor in Design History, University of Technology Sydney & Professor in Fashion Studies, Stockholm University), latest issue of Art Monthy.

Art Monthly is Australia’s major contemporary art monthly magazine. In an issue focussed on the contemporary, Peter McNeil’s essay introduces certain ideas that stem from the Fashioning the Early Modern project to new publics and connects past and present debates concerning the role of fashion in society.

*Project Event (past)*

3rd Fashioning the Early Modern workshop
Early Modern Textile Production , 6-7 October 2011, Copenhagen & Aarhus

The next Fashioning the Early Modern workshop will take place on 6-7 October 2011. The workshop is organised by the National Museum of Denmark and the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen.

The two-day workshop programme will run in Copenhagen (6 October) and Aarhus (7 October). On the first day, the participants will visit the Brede Manor (18th century mansion from the time of the Danish industrial revolution) and they will be able to see the collections of textiles from the storerooms of the Danish National Museum’s Conservation Department. The second day will consist of a visit to the Old Town Museum in Aarhus, followed by an afternoon PhD presentations session.

The workshop will be preceded by the CIETA (Centre International des Etudes des Textiles Anciens) conference, Copenhagen, 3-5 October.

A limited number of bursaries for the attendance of the workshop will be offered.

The call for bursaries and the full workshop programme will be publicised on the Workshop pages of our website.

Event

ICOM Costume Committee Annual Meeting, Ethnographic Museum, Belgrade, Serbia, 25 – 30 September 2011

Extended deadline for registration: 15 July 2011

Theme: “In Between – European Fashion Between East and West”

The ICOM Costume Committee Board, in close collaboration with colleagues in Belgrade, is in the process of finalizing the program which promises exciting and unusual five days of papers, exhibitions, poster presentations, workshops and discussions on how centuries of cultural exchange between East and West have influenced the culture of dress. It is planned that Dr. Hans-Martin Hinz, the President of ICOM, will also come to Belgrade and take part in the conference. A Costume Student Day will be organised on 24 September.

The registration deadline has been extended to 15 July 2011. The organisers are inviting all those intersted to register for the conference and forward this announcement to any colleagues who might be interested in joining the conference in Belgrade this year.

For further information, visit the www.etnografskimuzej.rs and www.costume-committee.org websites.

Download the conference flier (PDF, 157 Kb)

Launch Event

The Association of Dress Historians, New Research Day, The Art Workers’ Guild,London, 5 November 2011

Call for Papers (deadline: 14 August 2011)

Formerly CHODA, The Association of Dress Historians has been established to provide a meeting place for those involved in the professional practice of dress and textile history. This includes, but is not limited to, students, museum curators, designers, journalists, and academics in a number of fields, as well as independent researchers. Our main focus is the organisation of symposia and conferences, so we have decided to launch the Association with a New Research Forum, to take place on 5th November 2011 at the Art Worker’s Guild.

The aim of this event, which the organisers hope will become an annual fixture in the calendar, is to create a space for those actively engaged in research into dress and textile history to present new work, and to promote awareness of the diversity and vitality of the field.

Download the call for papers (PDF, 605 KB)

The event is deliberately unthemed to allow for a wide variety of research to be presented.

 

Event

Society for Renaissance Studies: 5th Biennial Conference, University of Manchester, 9-11 July 2012

Announcement and Call for Papers (deadline: 16 September 2012)

The 5th Biennial conference of the Society for Renaissance Studies will be held at the University of Manchester.

Accompanying events are being planned in the Whitworth Gallery, Chetham’s Library, the John Rylands Library, the People’s History Museum, the Royal Northern College of Music, and other cultural institutions in the city. In addition to scholarly papers, the conference will offer workshops on publishing, funding applications, teaching, and public engagement, as well as tours of libraries.

For more information and call for papers go here.

Event

Developments in Dress History, University of Brighton, 8-10 December 2011

Call for Papers (deadline: 1 August 2011)

Over the last twenty years, dress history has moved from the margins of academic debate to the centre of interdisciplinary analysis in the arts and humanities. Dress and its meanings are matters of significance for social and cultural historians; the circuits of clothing across the globe are used to explain patterns of globalisation; its exchange between people is essential to understandings of consumer culture; everything we wear is understood as a crucial component identities and rituals. Once denigrated by design reformers, fashionable dress is integrated into histories of design and western clothing is considered alongside traditional textiles within studies of material culture.

The full text of the Call for Papers can be viewed here.

 

Event

Costume Colloquium III, Past Dress – Future Fashion, 8-11 November 2012, Florence, Italy

Call for Papers (deadline for abstract submission: 31 October 2011)

The organizers and Advisory Committee of Costume Colloquium III: Past Dress – Future Fashion are currently seeking papers on unpublished research, new creations and/or practical experience, relating to the Topics of Interest (see below). We welcome proposals from: scholars, educators and museum specialists, students, makers and marketers of wearable art, conservators, re-enactors and other clothing enthusiasts worldwide in order to create a symposium that is inclusive in an international, inter-cultural and interdisciplinary nature.

Download the Call for Papers here.

For more details or to register an account and receive notifications about the site and the Costume Colloquium events visit the official Costume Colloquium website.

Announcement

Society for Renaissance Studies Book Prize

In 2012 the Society for Renaissance Studies will award for the first time a biennial book prize of £1,000 to encourage original research on any aspect in the field of Renaissance studies and to recognise significant accomplishments by members of the SRS.

The SRS Book Prize for the year 2012 will be awarded to the author of the best monograph in Renaissance Studies published between 1 January 2010 and 31 December 2011. The winner will be announced at the SRS 5th Biennial Conference, University of Manchester, 9—11 July 2012.

For more details visit: http://www.rensoc.org.uk/SRSBookPrize.html

*Project Event (past)*

Fashioning the Early Modern workshop 4: “Print Culture and Fashion Products”, 30 November – 1 December 2011, Livrustkammaren, Stockholm, Sweden

Organised by: Peter McNeil (University of Technology Sydney and Stockholm University) and Patrik Steorn (Stockholm University)

This Fashioning the Early Modern workshop will focus on the importance of print-culture in communicating fashionable ideas, material products and dress practices in a European context. New and cheaper forms of graphic reproduction and a greatly expanded commercial press arose in eighteenth-century Western Europe. Attitudes towards fashion in print played a significant role in defining national and regional identity across Europe.

Attendance at the workshop is by invitation only. A number of early career / postgraduate student bursaries will be offered for the attendance of the workshop.

For further details, please visit our workshop page.

Event

International Symposium on “Fashion in Translation”, 2 December 2011, Stockholm University, Sweden

The workshop will be followed by an international symposium “Fashion in Translation”, 2 December 2011. The symposium is hosted by the Centre for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University and is convened by Professor Peter McNeil and Dr Louise Wallenberg. The symposium is open to all; workshop participants are invited to attend.

For further details, please visit our workshop page.

Event

“Si le 18e siècle m’était conté… costumes d’exception”, Musée des tissus et des arts décoratifs de Lyon, 21 April – 18 September 2011

An exhibition on 18th century French costume entitled “Si le 18e siècle m’était conté… costumes d’exception” is running until the 18 September 2011 at the Musee des tissus et des arts decoratfis de Lyon: http://www.musee-des-tissus.com/enter.html

To watch a video about the exhibition, click on the link below:

http://dai.ly/h7o7Ro

*Project Event (past)*

2nd Fashioning the Early Modern Workshop: Social Groups and the Circulation of Fashion, 9-10 March 2011, University of Helsinki, Helsinki, Finland

The ‘Fashioning the Early Modern: Creativity and Innovation in Early Modern Europe, 1500-1800′ project held its second workshop on 9-10 March 2011 at the University of Helsinki, Finland. Workshop organiser: Dr Paula Hohti, University of Helsinki.

The workshop was organised around the project theme “Social groups and the circulation of fashion”. 22 participants attended the workshop; a small number of bursaries was offered to Early Career participants.

For photos from the workshop, visit the 2nd workshop page.

Latest Publications

Duren Textiles Newsletter

The Duran Textiles Newsletter is written in order to spread experiences within the area of ”historic textiles”. The editors’ ambition is to amuse the readers and stimulate interest in the 18th Century. The permanent contributors are Martin Ciszuk, MA in textile history and Laila Durán, who both work for the Durán Textiles AB company. A number of specialists from several museums and universities are also contributors to the newsletter on a regular basis.

The Newsletter is being distributed ten times a year and is free of charge. The editors hope the readers will enjoy their articles and offers and help them to spread the letter to friends and colleagues.

Latest edition of the Newsletter can be accessed here.

Contact:

www.durantextiles.com

Event

Allusions and Reflections: Greek and Roman Mythology in Renaissance Europe, 7 – 9 June 2012

Call for Papers (submission deadline: 31 May 2011)

Hosted by: Stockholm University & The Royal Swedish Academy of Letters, History and Antiquities

Stockholm University and The Royal Swedish Academy of Letters, History and Antiquities are pleased to announce a multidisciplinary Symposium in Stockholm, Sweden (June 7-9, 2012). The Symposium’s theme will be Allusions and Reflections: Greek and Roman Mythology in Renaissance Europe. Gathering scholars from a variety of disciplines ─ from political, religious and art history to literature and architecture ─ the Symposium will focus on the early modern period (ca 1450-1650) in Europe. Our intention is to enable and promote the exchange of ideas, experiences and knowledge across disciplinary and national borders.

The full text of the Call for Papers can be downloaded here.

Event (past)

International Symposium on Venetian Gros Point, 20-21 May 2011, TextilMuseum, St Gallen, Switzerland.

Organized by: Textilmuseum St Gall (Switzerland)

Curator: Ursula Karbacher

For further details about the programme, visit: http://www.textilmuseum.ch/Programme_Symposium.pdf

The museum currently also holds an exhibition on its very interesting collections on laces:
www.stgall.ch

http://www.stgall.ch/site/index.php/pressedossier/

For details about the symposium and / or its collections, please contact: info@textilmuseum.ch.

Event

Yohji Yamamoto at the Victoria & Albert Museum, 12 March – 10 July 2011

The Victoria and Albert Museum presents one of the most influential and enigmatic fashion designers of the last forty years, Yohji Yamamoto. Yamamoto is a visionary designer who has made a vital contribution to fashion, challenging traditional norms of clothing with his avant-garde style. This is his first major solo show in the UK and is an installation-based retrospective showcasing over 80 women’s and menswear garments, which are most representative of his work.

 

 

2010

 

Publication by Partners

L’Esprit des modes au Grand Siècle, by Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset

Éditions du comité des travaux historiques et scientifiques, 2010

C’est au xviie siècle, entre la cour de Versailles et la ville de Paris, que se construit l’industrie de la mode. Au travers de sa chronique des modes nouvelles, Donneau de Visé invente pour le Mercure galant la première rubrique jamais consacrée à l’empire changeant des modes. Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset a entrepris la recension complète de ces articles enrichis d’un glossaire qui fait revivre le vocabulaire chatoyant des couleurs, textiles et confections de l’époque. En effet, que sont les couleurs prince ou cheveux, les manteaux de la Chine et les taffetas d’Angleterre, les vestales… ? Cette édition offre une documentation originale sur un sujet de la société du Grand Siècle qui préoccupa l’Europe entière.

The flier and an order form can be downloaded here.

 

 

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